Calipers: what type and why do we use them?

There are 2 type of calipers we use. One is called a fixed mount (right, top) and the other is a floating caliper (right, bottom). These caliper are used on many different type of cars. Most commonly, smaller calipers float, larger calipers are fixed. The larger calipers are commonly used with 12” - 14” rotor diameters. These rotor/calipers require 16” wheels or larger.

  Different types of rotors: one piece or two? 

One Piece: This type of rotor (right) is used for most applications. The original rotor was a cast 2 piece rotor. We now reproduce this rotor as a one piece “Unicast.” This rotor is better than the original and has improvements to handle more heat. We add slotting to improve rotor life. The slots sweep the pads clean, allowing the rotor to run cooler.

Two Piece: This type of rotor is used for special applications. The addition of an aluminum center section (hat), allows us to make limited or custom applications. This can be bolted on to rotor diameters as large as 15.” This same rotor “hat” is used in racing to reduce sprung weight.

  Rear disc brakes: Why do you need them?

Front brakes can only do so much. Most rear drums do very little for stopping power, which is usually why they last 2 - 3 times longer than the front pads. By adding rear disc brakes, you can add as much as 30% more brake force to your braking system.

  Why is application so important in selecting brakes?

Many muscle cars had upgraded rear axles as well as larger front spindles. This is due to engine size, suspension upgrades and even mid year model changes. All domestic models have at one time or another experienced this situation. Older vehicles, street rods and muscle cars also may be modified. This is why we offer over 400 different specific applications.

  Boosters - Do I need one for disc brakes?

Many of the early muscle cars did not have power brakes. Power brakes were an option on 1967 and later models. Because of the increased valve overlap used in higher horsepower engines developed in many cars, there was not enough vacuum to run the boosters. Many of the restored muscle cars have the same problem. Manual disc brakes work fine. Boosters are designed to use less effort to stop. We offer many kits with manual or power disc brakes.

18” of vacuum is required to allow a booster to operate correctly!

  How and why do I bench bleed a master cylinder?

When installing or replacing a master cylinder, it is critical that all air is removed from the master cylinder. This can easily be done by bench bleeding the master cylinder prior to installation. Using the SSBC master cylinder bleeder kit (#0460):

1. Place your master cylinder in a vise by the ears (not body). Make sure it is level.
2. Attach a piece of clear plastic hose to the short end of one of the plastic nozzles. Do the same to the other hose and nozzle.
3. Clip the plastic bridge to the wall and push the ends of the hose through the holes so they are SUBMERGED in the reservoir on either side of the wall.
4. Press the tapered end of the nozzle FIRMLY into the cylinder port hole with a twisting motion. Repeat this procedure on the other port hole.
5. Fill the reservoir with CLEAN brake fluid recommended by the manufacturer.
6. Using full strokes, push the piston in, then release. Do this until ALL the air bubbles have disappeared from the clear plastic hose.

(CAUTION-MASTER CYLINDER WILL NOT BLEED PROPERLY UNLESS HOSES ARE SUBMERGED IN BRAKE FLUID UNTIL THE BLEEDING PROCESS IS COMPLETED.)

Now mount master cylinder and avoid brake fluid leaking out of front and rear ports during installation.

  When installing brake calipers, lines and hoses, how do I bleed the system?

When installing brake calipers, lines and hoses, how do I bleed the system?

Always bench bleed master cylinder first, then the system. There are four methods: gravity, pressure, vacuum, and pedal bleeding. The most common is pedal. This process is as follows:

1. Pedal bleeding is a 2 person job - one person pumps the pedal, and the other operates the valves. Open each bleeder valve individually, then depress the pedal one full stroke. The person watching the valves looks for air bubbles and closes the bleeder valve before the pedal is slowly returned to the released position. (NOTE: To assure that no air is siphoned into the system, a plastic hose should be connected to the valve. The other end of the hose should be submerged in container of brake fluid. Also, the valve must be closed at the end of each stroke before releasing the pedal.)
2. Continue in this manner until all calipers are bled.
3. After each caliper is bled, refill the master cylinder and frequently check the reservoir.
4. Bleed the longest line first, following this order: right-rear-outer, right-rear-inner, left-rear-outer, left-rear-inner, right-front and left-front.

  What amount of pressures are needed to stop my car?

Many of the early muscle cars did not have power brakes. Power brakes were an option on 1967 and later models. Because of the increased valve overlap used in higher horsepower engines developed in many cars, there was not enough vacuum to run the boosters. Many of the restored muscle cars have the same problem. Manual disc brakes work fine. Boosters are designed to use less effort to stop. We offer many kits with manual or power disc brakes.

18” of vacuum is required to allow a booster to operate correctly!

  What is the best type of pad for my car?

The best type of brake pad for any car will depend on both how the vehicle is being used and the type of vehicle itself. Using a full race type pad on your street car would be just as dangerous as trying to stop a race car with O.E. organic pads. Factors like vehicle weight, brake temperature, and how the vehicle will be used should be considered when choosing the proper brake pad. For this reason, Stainless Steel Brakes stocks multiple brake pad compounds for most popular cars and trucks.

Our "ForcePower" Pads